Always one of the highlights of any trip to the Veneto--and the best ones are ones out of the way you either stumble upon, or have us show you. This little one is actually one of our favorites and we’re glad to see it get mention; while it’s not easy to find, the hunting is well worth it.
George Hincapie knows a thing or two about cycling in Europe, and I suspect his assessment–that one of the chief difficulties will be the constant temptation to stop for the view…or the food, or the wine, or the sights in the little towns–is entirely correct.
If you’re interested in biking your way around Italy, let us know and we’ll help you plan something (we have a couple avid cyclists on staff, as it happens, your author included). Another good spot is the Euganean Hills in the Veneto–magical sites, sights, and did I mention wine stops?
Come ride with us.
One of the best parts of staying at Hotel Giorgione, our “home in Venice” is the warm hospitality of the quiet corner of Cannaregio where it’s found; this short video shows that Venice isn’t just the hustle-bustle crowded experience many folks complain about. If you know where you’re going, you’ll see the Venice that Venetians themselves experience: a post-work nip of prosecco, a quiet calle, and some fantastic cicchetti prepared with fresh local ingredients.
Really enjoyed this the other night, paired with some Talenti gelato and some The Americans reruns. It was more acidic than I expected, but the color was that spot-on garnet rust that you want from a nebbiolo and while the finish was short, it had that flinty minerality that just reminds you of the wine you get in Italy that’s hard to find here in the States.
It seemed a fancier version of the table red you get at one of my favorite spots in Venice (al Mascaron) with your lobster spaghetti. If you’re looking for something that just “tastes like Italy” in a very legit-but-off-the-beaten-path way (and if you’re reading this, I know you are), an excellent choice indeed.
It’s been a long couple of hard working weeks and I scarcely know what end is up, but it’s Friday, I’m back home to family, and it’s time to taste some Piemonte goodness.
Report soon to follow!
It’s snowing today, and spring feels pretty far off at the moment. I’d much rather be here taking in this view on a 60* day enjoying an Adriatic breeze and contemplating a plate of seafood risotto and tagliatelle with cuttlefish ink sauce. Wouldn’t you? Ahhh, Venice…
As close to a rockstar moment as I’ve had recently would certainly be the invitation to set foot in this kitchen (though let’s be fair, the invitation was owing to Doug’s reputation, and my lovely wife and I just got to go along for the ride). If you’re not a foodie or fan of Anthony Bourdain, it might not register just what an honor this photo op was, but indulge me the explanation that follows. This is one of the most important kitchens in Europe for good reason, and we got to stand there. Some folks’ knees knock together and their hearts race when they meet their favorite actor or musician; mine do that when I get to set foot in a famous kitchen where greatness happens, and needless to say I was having one of those joyous moments!
Trattoria da Romano is another prime example (Mama Isa’s kitchen being another we’ve touched upon recently) of the Italian culinary traditions that do not just deserve preservation but rather require it for Italy to remain true to herself; Sassi Italy Tours has been dining here and taking clients here for more than 20 years, and it is no accident that Doug gets the velvet glove treatment here—the fine folks who have kept da Romano thriving for four generations and counting are gracious hosts, and are truly, openly, and to the bottom of their hearts grateful for guests who genuinely take an interest in their traditional methodologies, recipes, and tenacious attachment to doing things the “old way” not merely as a gimmick but as embodiment of pursuing culinary passion.
In short, they still do it the way Venetian fisherman and residents did it a century ago, and they are onto something not to be missed.
After a walk around Mazzorbo and then the lace making shops full of le nonne tatting together luxurious pieces of lace finery that make Burano, well…Burano, it was time to munch. Heading to our favorite spot, I reflected upon few years ago when Tony Bourdain did his Venice episode (click here if you missed it–Massimo and other our other favorite waiters are featured prominently, and it’s great to see these guys year after year as they’re not only friends, but consummate professionals who treat presentation and preparation like the art that it is) feeling almost violated; that was *our* “secret spot” he was telling the world about, a spot Doug had discovered while Tony was still sous-cheffing his way through NYC’s infamously treacherous restaurant scene, easily a decade or more before he was anything approaching a celebrity. His good word was going to land cruise ships full of us tourists on Burano’s vaporetto stops clogging up our favorite restaurant…but a humbling, food-snobbery eliminating realization struck me: Venice and Italy generally cannot sustain their food traditions merely on the strength of foodie Italophiles and art history guides. They need travelers to find the authentic goodness, the rustic charm, and the classical recipes in their native environments to sustain what is the original slow-food locavore movement.
This isn’t lost in the slightest on Gigi (proprietor and fourth generation in his family to run Trattoria da Romano), and as he opened a bottle of brolettino for us and engaged us in conversation (this itself was no small honor, to have the proprietor of one of the most important restaurants in Italy opening our wine for us) he made a point of saying that he still appreciated Anthony Bourdain’s feature on their restaurant and how it helped bring international attention to their efforts to preserve traditional Veneto cuisine. It’s no small thing, and while I’m sure there was never any doubt, Tony, rest assured you are still very much appreciated on Burano. They’re grateful, and so am I that this little corner of foodie heaven got the exposure it deserves.
After a ridiculously amazing meal of local mussels and clams, their famous risotto, and branzino grilled over a woodfire with garlic, local olive oil, and lemon, it was time to hunt down some gelato and grappa before shooting some more Burano shots (every ten paces on that little island is another breathtaking photo op, no exaggeration), but not before Massimo invited us to take a pic with him in this mecca of food.
Sassi Italy Tours takes clients there a lot, but it’ll never, ever, ever get old, and to Massimo and Gigi, we can’t wait to dine with you again. Ci vediamo a presto!
After she finished the tiramisu preparation class, Isa showed my wife how to do a simple pomodoro sauce with garlic, capers, and a special type of cherry tomato called “daterini”. You can’t get them in the US, but a good cherry tomato from your farmers market or organic grocer will taste almost as good as what we ate that day in Padova.
I shot about 20mins of video that I’ll edit and share for the foodies out there, but I wanted to get a sneak peak out before dinner time to make you dear readers good and hungry. We tossed this sauce over some homemade tonnarelli (think square spaghetti) that the wife rolled out and cut right there in Isa’s Padova kitchen. What a blast! After all this time sending clients there, the wife was glad she finally got her turn to enjoy Isa’s teachings; Isa’s committed to the original “slow-food” culture, meaning locally sourced, home-prepared ingredients and dishes that eschew processed foods. She’s keeping the old ways of preparing Italian cuisine alive in this day and age of rampant processed food addiction, and needless to say we support that wholeheartedly.
More on tiramisu and tonnarelli soon! But for now…yes, this was some darn tasty stuff, so feel free to be jealous. 🙂
After a long flight and incurring some rather confused circadian rhythms, it was time for some vino bianco and some smoked swordfish wrapped around robiola, artichoke hearts, Italian tuna in red peppers, bacala, and local sardines and anchovies marinated in lemon and olive oil. Perhaps the best food I’ve ever had, and not just because we we’re travel weary.
This is one of our secret spots, well out of the way, but so worth finding! Come join us.
Southwest got us to EWR. Now for United to get us to MXP!
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