Category Archives: Italian Food

A Rock Star Moment In Venice (or, a thank you to Anthony Bourdain)

da romano kitchen

As close to a rockstar moment as I’ve had recently would certainly be the invitation to set foot in this kitchen (though let’s be fair, the invitation was owing to Doug’s reputation, and my lovely wife and I just got to go along for the ride).  If you’re not a foodie or fan of Anthony Bourdain, it might not register just what an honor this photo op was, but indulge me the explanation that follows.  This is one of the most important kitchens in Europe for good reason, and we got to stand there.  Some folks’ knees knock together and their hearts race when they meet their favorite actor or musician; mine do that when I get to set foot in a famous kitchen where greatness happens, and needless to say I was having one of those joyous moments!

Trattoria da Romano is another prime example (Mama Isa’s kitchen being another we’ve touched upon recently) of the Italian culinary traditions that do not just deserve preservation but rather require it for Italy to remain true to herself; Sassi Italy Tours has been dining here and taking clients here for more than 20 years, and it is no accident that Doug gets the velvet glove treatment here—the fine folks who have kept da Romano thriving for four generations and counting are gracious hosts, and are truly, openly, and to the bottom of their hearts grateful for guests who genuinely take an interest in their traditional methodologies, recipes, and tenacious attachment to doing things the “old way” not merely as a gimmick but as embodiment of pursuing culinary passion.

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In short, they still do it the way Venetian fisherman and residents did it a century ago, and they are onto something not to be missed.

After a walk around Mazzorbo and then the lace making shops full of le nonne  tatting together luxurious pieces of lace finery that make Burano, well…Burano, it was time to munch.  Heading to our favorite spot, I reflected upon few years ago when Tony Bourdain did his Venice episode (click here if you missed it–Massimo and other our other favorite waiters are featured prominently, and it’s great to see these guys year after year as they’re not only friends, but consummate professionals who treat presentation and preparation like the art that it is) feeling almost violated; that was *our* “secret spot” he was telling the world about, a spot Doug had discovered while Tony was still sous-cheffing his way through NYC’s infamously treacherous restaurant scene, easily a decade or more before he was anything approaching a celebrity.  His good word was going to land cruise ships full of us tourists on Burano’s vaporetto stops clogging up our favorite restaurant…but a humbling, food-snobbery eliminating realization struck me:  Venice and Italy generally cannot sustain their food traditions merely on the strength of foodie Italophiles and art history guides.  They need travelers to find the authentic goodness, the rustic charm, and the classical recipes in their native environments to sustain what is the original slow-food locavore movement.

This isn’t lost in the slightest on Gigi (proprietor and fourth generation in his family to run Trattoria da Romano), and as he opened a bottle of brolettino for us and engaged us in conversation (this itself was no small honor, to have the proprietor of one of the most important restaurants in Italy opening our wine for us) he made a point of saying that he still appreciated Anthony Bourdain’s feature on their restaurant and how it helped bring international attention to their efforts to preserve traditional Veneto cuisine.  It’s no small thing, and while I’m sure there was never any doubt, Tony, rest assured you are still very much appreciated on Burano.  They’re grateful, and so am I that this little corner of foodie heaven got the exposure it deserves.

After a ridiculously amazing meal of local mussels and clams, their famous risotto, and branzino grilled over a woodfire with garlic, local olive oil, and lemon, it was time to hunt down some gelato and grappa before shooting some more Burano shots (every ten paces on that little island is another breathtaking photo op, no exaggeration), but not before Massimo invited us to take a pic with him in this mecca of food.

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Sassi Italy Tours takes clients there a lot, but it’ll never, ever, ever get old, and to Massimo and Gigi, we can’t wait to dine with you again.  Ci vediamo a presto!

Sawyer Approves Of Mama Isa’s Tiramisu Recipe

Apparently Mommy made “tiramisu…of the princess!”

What can I say?  My kids have great taste.  And trust us, it’s mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmgood.  We’re all still trying to resist having a third slice.

Tiramisu!

The video for the tiramisu class is up, and it’s a fun watch.  Mama Isa is preserving the old ways of doing things (Italy really is the original slow-food movement) and artisanal approaches to food preparation.  You can’t tell from watching, but rest assured that soggy four day old processed mess of a tiramisu you’re getting at the Macaroni Grill is *nothing* like the light, airy, to die for tiramisu Isa and my wife made in Padova.  I tried not to give away all of her trade secrets here, but you will see her talking about the simple ingredients list that comprises this elegant dessert.

Can’t wait for the SO to make some more. 🙂

A Preview From Mama Isa’s Cooking Class

After she finished the tiramisu preparation class, Isa showed my wife how to do a simple pomodoro sauce with garlic, capers, and a special type of cherry tomato called “daterini”.  You can’t get them in the US, but a good cherry tomato from your farmers market or organic grocer will taste almost as good as what we ate that day in Padova.

I shot about 20mins of video that I’ll edit and share for the foodies out there, but I wanted to get a sneak peak out before dinner time to make you dear readers good and hungry.  We tossed this sauce over some homemade tonnarelli (think square spaghetti) that the wife rolled out and cut right there in Isa’s Padova kitchen.  What a blast!  After all this time sending clients there, the wife was glad she finally got her turn to enjoy Isa’s teachings; Isa’s committed to the original “slow-food” culture, meaning locally sourced, home-prepared ingredients and dishes that eschew processed foods.  She’s keeping the old ways of preparing Italian cuisine alive in this day and age of rampant processed food addiction, and needless to say we support that wholeheartedly.

More on tiramisu and tonnarelli soon!  But for now…yes, this was some darn tasty stuff, so feel free to be jealous. 🙂

Cooking Classes, Hotels, and Wonder

We’ve been sending folks to Mama Isa for a while now, so that my wife got to take one of her tonnarelli and tiramisu classes for herself instead of hearing about other people enjoying it was just wonderful; I figure I should edit the video and stills from that and do a write up on that first.  Several other things that’ll take more time that I want to put together will trickle out in the next week or two, depending on how long this latest bout of jet lag takes to dissipate and let me quit procrastinating.  As much time as I spend in airports, one thing I’ve noticed is conditioning doesn’t matter as you age:  past 35…sitting in a big metal very arid tube for hours and having your biorhythms disrupted just takes a while to get over.  Even a short hop business trip for a few days will leave you drained and dreading airports.

 

Vaporetto 1

 

But to tide you fair readers over, I’ll post some pics here and there to share in the wonder that is the Veneto.  And yes, I still cry a little when the train pulls out of the station and Venezia recedes in the distance.   This one:  from the vaporetto *1 at night.  Sigh…such beauty.  Everyone should see this place at least once.  I remain committed to the notion that if they did, we’d end all war.

Tiramisu and Tonnarelli

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Today’s cooking class with Mama Isa in Padova was everything the wife hoped it would be. The results speak for themselves!

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Tonnarelli are a fresh pasta made via an instrument known as a chitarra (guitar), pressing the dough through a series of strings to make a square spaghetti-like noodle.

Gourmet Cicchetti In Venice

After a long flight and incurring some rather confused circadian rhythms, it was time for some vino bianco and some smoked swordfish wrapped around robiola, artichoke hearts, Italian tuna in red peppers, bacala, and local sardines and anchovies marinated in lemon and olive oil. Perhaps the best food I’ve ever had, and not just because we we’re travel weary.

This is one of our secret spots, well out of the way, but so worth finding! Come join us.

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Well, That’s Awful–La Beccherie Closing

A rather iconic Treviso restaurant is apparently shutting down, blaming the recent change in the way Italians eat out and the flagging Italian economy.  It’s true, over the past decade or so more American style eat on the go fast-food joints have started dotting the landscape and changing the way Italians (and let’s face it, the Italians ARE the original slow-food movement, making this a particularly unfortunate bit of globalization fallout) take their meals.  As a result, traditional restauranteurs are feeling quite the squeeze.
isa tiramisu(Mama Isa’s take on tiramisu shown here…yes!)

Suffice it to say, on a Sassi Italy Tour you won’t be eating a lot of fast food.  Fear not!

I’m always a bit skeptical of “this dish was invented here” stories, as I suspect pastries and desserts and entrees evolve more than get “invented,” but to see this place go is disappointing.  Treviso is beautiful, by the way.

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Negroamaro

This varietal really rocks with my wife’s buttery garlic bread while you’re cooking dinner. That is all.

Try it!

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Seafood Cooking Class In The Veneto

Isa’s offering a new class, one for the seafood lovers out there (even if you’re not, don’t discount seafood until you’ve had it prepared the way they do in the Veneto).  It really is different when prepared the way they do there, and the freshness factor is hard to beat–and that’s coming from a native Marylander to boot.

vongole